This baby puffin crochet pattern makes a chunky, standing seabird about 13 in (33 cm) tall. It has a black back and head, a white face and belly, a striped red, yellow and green beak, bright orange feet, two flat wings and a short tail.

It is worked in super bulky yarn with a 7 mm hook, so the stitches grow fast and the finished puffin feels soft and solid. The head and body are one piece, worked from the top of the head down in joined rounds with an invisible join.

What makes this puffin different from a basic amigurumi is the colorwork. The white face patches and the white belly are worked right into the rounds by switching between black and white, so there is no white patch to sew on later. The beak is also striped in the round.

It is a good project for a crocheter who can already work rounds, increases and decreases and wants to practice clean color changes on a bigger, quick-to-grow toy.

Tip: Carry the color you are not using along the inside of the piece. Keep the carried strand loose so the black and white sections do not pucker.

Finished size

About 13 in (33 cm) tall when worked at the stated gauge: 10 sc and 10 rounds = about 4 in (10 cm) with a 7 mm hook.

Check your gauge before you start. A looser gauge makes a bigger puffin and lets the stuffing show through.

Yarn substitution

The pattern lists five colors: #153 Black (A), #099 Fisherman (B), #138 Cranberry (C), #189 Butterscotch (D) and #116 Succulent (E). These shade names and numbers match Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, a super bulky (#6) yarn. You need 1 ball of each.

Any super bulky acrylic or wool blend that meets the gauge will work. Use a soft white or cream for B so the face and belly stand out against the black.

Smaller puffin: Use worsted weight yarn with a 3.5–4 mm hook and 6–8 mm eyes. The puffin will come out roughly half the size.
Beak colors: Any red, golden yellow and gray-green work. The beak is small, so leftovers from your stash are enough.

Common mistakes

Counting the ch 1 as a stitch. Every round starts with ch 1, but it does not count. Work the first sc into the same stitch you joined into.
Losing track of the color sections. Rounds 6 to 29 switch between A and B. Place a stitch marker at the start of each white section, and count each section as you go.
Pulling the carried yarn too tight. A tight float makes the face and belly pucker. Spread out the stitches on your hook before each color change.
Forgetting the eyes. Insert the 10 mm safety eyes after Rnd 13, before the opening gets too small to reach inside.
Working Rnd 30 in both loops. Rnd 30 is worked in back loops only. This makes the flat base so the puffin can stand.
Stuffing the feet. The feet are not stuffed. They are flattened and closed with a row of hdc and slip stitches.

FAQ

Can I give this puffin to a baby?
The PDF says it is not a toy, and safety eyes can be a choking risk for children under 3. For a child, embroider the eyes with black yarn and sew all parts on very securely.

How do I change colors in the middle of a round?
Work the last stitch of the old color up to the last yarn over. Yarn over with the new color and pull through to finish the stitch. Leave the old color hanging inside, and pick it up again at the next color section.

What is an invisible join?
After the last stitch of a round, drop the loop from your hook. Insert the hook from the wrong side to the right side in the first stitch of the round, put the loop back on the hook and pull it through. Then start the next round.

Does the puffin stand up on its own?
The back loop round (Rnd 30) gives the body a flat base, and the feet are sewn underneath. Stuff the bottom firmly and evenly so it sits flat.

Do I stuff the beak and tail?
Yes, stuff both lightly before sewing them on. Only the feet stay flat.

Pattern notes

The puffin is made in 7 pieces: Head-Body, 2 Wings, Tail, Beak and 2 Feet.
Head-Body, Tail, Beak and Feet are worked in joined rounds with an invisible join. Each round starts with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch.
Each Wing is worked in one row.
When the pattern says "with A" or "with B", switch to that color. Do not cut the old color until the pattern tells you to.

Head-Body

Head

With A (black), beginning at the top of the head, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1 (RS): 8 sc in ring; invisible join. [8]
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around; invisible join. [16]
Rnd 3: ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around; invisible join. [24]
Rnd 4: ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around; invisible join. [32]
Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in each st around; invisible join. [32]

Face

The two white face patches start here. Keep both colors attached and carry the unused one inside.

Rnd 6: with A, ch 1, sc in next 8 sts; (with B, sc in next 4 sts; with A, sc in next 8 sts) twice; invisible join. [32]
Rnd 7: with A, ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; with B, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st; with A, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts; with B, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; with A, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; invisible join. [40]
Rnds 8 and 9: with A, ch 1, sc in next 7 sts; with B, sc in next 11 sts; with A, sc in next 4 sts; with B, sc in next 11 sts; with A, sc in next 7 sts; invisible join. [40]
Rnd 10: with A, ch 1, sc in next 9 sts; with B, sc in next 9 sts; with A, sc in next 4 sts; with B, sc in next 9 sts; with A, sc in next 9 sts; invisible join. [40]
Rnd 11: with A, ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) twice; with B, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; with A, sc2tog twice; with B, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; with A, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts) twice; invisible join. [32]
Rnd 12: with A, ch 1, sc in next 9 sts; with B, sc in next 6 sts; with A, sc in next 2 sts; with B, sc in next 6 sts; with A, sc in next 9 sts; invisible join. [32]
Rnd 13: with A, ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around; invisible join. [24]

Following the package instructions, insert the 10 mm safety eyes on the sides of the head, between Rnds 8 and 9, about 10 sts apart. Start stuffing now and keep stuffing as you go until the piece is finished.

Body

The white belly starts at the front of the body and grows wider, then narrows again near the base.

Rnd 14: with A, ch 1, sc in next 11 sts; with B, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts; with A, sc in next 9 sts; invisible join. [28]
Rnd 15: with A, ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice; with B, sc in next 10 sts; with A, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; invisible join. [32]
Rnd 16: with A, ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 4 times; with B, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; with A, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, 2 sc in next st; invisible join. [42]
Rnd 17: with A, ch 1, sc in next 16 sts; with B, sc in next 12 sts; with A, sc in next 14 sts; invisible join. [42]
Rnd 18: with A, ch 1, sc in next 16 sts; with B, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) twice, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice; with A, sc in next 14 sts; invisible join. [46]
Rnds 19–21: with A, ch 1, sc in next 16 sts; with B, sc in next 16 sts; with A, sc in next 14 sts; invisible join. [46]
Rnd 22: with A, ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts; with B, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog; with A, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts; invisible join. [42]
Rnds 23 and 24: with A, ch 1, sc in next 15 sts; with B, sc in next 14 sts; with A, sc in next 13 sts; invisible join. [42]
Rnd 25: with A, ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) twice, sc in next st; with B, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st; with A, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog; invisible join. [36]
Rnds 26 and 27: with A, ch 1, sc in next 13 sts; with B, sc in next 12 sts; with A, sc in next 11 sts; invisible join. [36]
Rnd 28: with A, ch 1, sc in next 13 sts; with B, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; with A, sc in next 11 sts; invisible join. [36]
Rnd 29: with A, ch 1, sc in next 13 sts; with B, (sc2tog, sc in next st) 4 times; with A, sc in next 11 sts; invisible join. [32]

Cut B. Work the rest of the piece with A only.

Rnd 30: ch 1, working in back loops only, (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around; invisible join. [24]
Rnd 31: ch 1, (sc in next st, sc2tog) around; invisible join. [16]

Finish stuffing the piece. Stuff the base firmly so the puffin stands.

Rnd 32: ch 1, sc2tog around; invisible join. [8]

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Thread the tail through the tops of the stitches of the last round, pull it to close the opening and knot it securely.

Wings (make 2)

With A (black), ch 19.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 13 ch, (sc, hdc) in next ch, (dc, tr) in next ch, ch 1, (tr, dc) in next ch, (hdc, sc) in next ch. [22 sts and 1 ch-1 space]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The taller stitches at the end make the pointed, triangular wing tip.

Tail

With A (black), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring; invisible join. [8]
Rnd 2: ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts) twice; invisible join. [12]
Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st; invisible join. [16]
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts; invisible join. [20]
Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 3 sts; invisible join. [24]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.

Feet (make 2)

With D (yellow-orange), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring; invisible join. [6]
Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in each st around; invisible join. [6]
Rnd 3: ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice; invisible join. [8]
Rnd 4: ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice; invisible join. [10]
Rnd 5: ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice; invisible join. [12]
Rnd 6: ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around; invisible join. [18]

Do not stuff the foot.

Row 7: flatten the last round and crochet through both layers, (hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st) 3 times. [9]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The hdc and slip stitch row makes the three webbed toes.

Beak

With C (red), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring; invisible join. [6]
Rnd 2: with C, ch 1, (with C, 3 sc in next st; with D, sc in next 2 sts) twice; invisible join. [10]
Rnd 3: with D, ch 1, 2 sc in first st; with C, 2 sc in next st; with D, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; with C, 2 sc in next st; with D, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 2 sts; invisible join. [16]

Cut C.

Rnd 4: with D, ch 1, sc in each st around; invisible join. [16]
Rnd 5: with E, ch 1, sc in next 2 sts; with D, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts; with E, sc in next 6 sts; with D, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts; with E, sc in last 4 sts; invisible join. [20]

Cut D.

Rnd 6: with E, ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 4 times; invisible join. [16]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the beak.

Finishing

Use the photos as a guide. Where you can, sew with the yarn tails still attached to each piece.

Finished crochet baby puffin shown from the back, both sides and the front, as a guide for placing the black wings, short tail, striped beak and orange feet

With black embroidery floss, embroider straight lines around the eyes.
With A, sew the wings vertically onto the sides of the body, between the black and white sections, with the triangular tips at the lower end. Sew the straight edge of each triangular tip horizontally onto the black section.
With A, sew the tail to the back of the body.
With D, sew the feet to the bottom of the body.
With E, sew the beak to the head, centered between the eyes on the white face.
Weave in all ends.

Tip: Pin every piece in place first and check the puffin from the front, the side and the back before you sew. The wings and feet change how it stands.

Your baby puffin is ready to stand on a shelf or join a seabird collection.

Optional & Creative Ideas

Make a smaller puffin: Use worsted weight yarn and a 3.5–4 mm hook for a shelf-sized bird about half as tall.
Change the eye marking: Stitch a small triangle of gray or black floss above and behind each eye for the classic puffin look.
Child-friendly version: Embroider the eyes with black yarn instead of using safety eyes.
Make a colony: Work a few puffins at different sizes for a seabird display or a nautical nursery.

Final Thoughts

This puffin grows fast in super bulky yarn, and the white face and belly are built into the rounds, so most of the work is careful counting. Take your time with the color sections and you will have a big, cheerful seabird in an afternoon or two.

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Baby Puffin Amigurumi Crochet Pattern